Grey wool kirtle mid 15 century
Adelheid needs an everyday outfit. The ultimate goal is a linen undershirt, grey linen waisted kirtle, and a Burgundian gown of heavy blue wool with fur trim. Then sleeves, apron and a cap to match. Gorgeous!!
But to get there, I need to learn how to do a few things, including how to draft/fit things for my body. I've had some initial luck using a purchased pattern for the Italian outfit, which has given me the confidence to try to draft my own pattern.
Mr. and I found some suit wool at a thrift store which wasn't period, but the price was right (8 bucks for several wide yards), so if it didn't work out the cost was low. I grit my teeth and gave it a gentle wash and dry.
Using some spare fabric, I mocked up bodices a few different ways before hitting on Morgan Donner's videos, "Drafting a Medieval Kirtle Dress Pattern" and "Making a Medieval Heraldic Dress"
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yED06QFK2Q4
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KXv5I1A3WQQ
The drafting used a blend of measurements and math (with a little goodwill). I wanted the front pieces to be straight down the bodice, due to the striped fabric, so I moved the front "s curves" to the underarm/side pieces but otherwise I did exactly what she said.
Using the resulting pattern, I cut the main lining pieces and tacked them together to check the fit. In the ballpark!
Time to cut the wool! I used the lining pieces as a guide and tried to keep the lines straight:
Obligatory cat as helper.
I stitched them all together the easiest way possible with the machine and ended up with something like this:
No, not the messy kitchen, the dress.
Not bad, but frustratingly poor fit after all the mock-ups. I took the back seam in another 1/2 inch. I wanted to pull the back in even more but wanted to still be able to reach forward without constricting. I also pulled waaaaaay up on the shoulder straps, which seems to have been the biggest culprit. This resulted in a much better fit:
It's subtle, but the dress feels like it fits so much better. Still have some wrinkling, and the back neck isn't lying right, but I'm thrilled with it - especially for a bit of a "throw away" project. I could cut a "v" in the back, maybe.
Next came time for the eyelets... Ugh!!! After sewing a black linen tunic, I swore I'd never sew black on black again. I wasn't thinking through black on dark grey... Not much better. I have popped a wobbly on eyelets before and actually gave up on the last project before figuring them out, opting instead for grommets. But this time, I saw it through and I'm happy I did. It was a mental block. Through the hole, back to front, trap the thread, repeat.
There they all are, ready to be sewn. I felt like a porcupine with this in my lap. These are about an inch apart, offset for spiral lacing. Forgive how the lining is connected to the dress, I stress this is a "proof of concept" outfit. I promise to do it right for the period outfit!
To sleeve or not to sleeve? I was afraid sleeves would ruin the look and fit, however the goal was to learn how to draft, so... I've put the project to the side for a little while.
To be enthusiastically continued!
YIS,
Adelheid
