It's a schaube! It's a müzl! It's a schaublein?

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Just back from a wonderful weekend of SCAdian adventures, this time a record breaking Tir Righ February Investiture. Yesterday morning I had some time to talk garb with someone I hold in high esteem. Now I have plans, and a road map to get to the next section.

She reached out with an incredible short video of a gentleman making a couple of folds, a couple cuts, and boom! There's a cape/gollar. Really cute. We had a short chat about the garment, and she said that in Marion McNealy and Katherine Barich's's book "Drei Schnitterbücher", there is a pattern for a short shaube/ long müzl/gollar type garment. It is really a "schaublein", or little schaube. I pulled out the book and wanted to take my day off to give it a try.

First, let's make the muslin pretty with some ironing:

Then I did some math. I'm hoping to use this as a learning experience for when I want to make historical patterns work in a future project:

First piece was easy, except I was a little bit short on one section. I pinned in some fabric to make up the difference:

Then I folded and used the cut piece to pattern the next cut. This is where I made an error in judgement. Eyeballing the pattern, it looked like the other pieces were roughly half the size, but my math had suggested they should be bigger, somewhere between 2/3 and 3/4s. 


I went for a half, and then realized that the answer was in the book all along:

Some wasted time and fabric. Went to get some more muslin from the stash to try again. It's a little narrow, but at 3/4 of the other measurement, it just works. Next issue was shaping the collar.

The pattern references that the collar is cut "gestalt". I think I understand that concept, in that I have to "trust the process". I tried three different versions, each increasing in size, without increasing in height. I gently pleated the back onto the collar, but overall there is just a little bit too much hem. I ended up doing some pleats, rather than "easing" it on. But... It seems to work!

High necked collar! The project took me a lot longer than I expected, so I "put a pin in it" before trying in wearable fabric.

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